Dish in the District: The Local Chefs Come Out to Play (Chef Voltaggio!)

So as it turned out, I took a break from work to go to the Metropolitan Cooking and Entertaining Show.  Imagine, a convention center filled with booths of food... all different types of samples... sausages, Indian food, sangria slushies, horseradish cheese, bbq...lots of bbq, hot sauce, salsa (very popular was the crab salsa), bite sized cookies, decorative cakes, and the list goes on.  It was quite fun to eat our way through the Show.

But the highlight this year was seeing BRYAN VOLTAGGIO - Maryland's own Top Chef contestant, owner and head chef of Volt in Frederick, MD.  Chef B.V. was featured at the Bloom Cooking stage -- the Bloom stage featured a number of favorite local chefs, including Top Chef/Zaytinya Chef Mike Isabella, Chef Cathal Armstrong from Restaurant Eve, Chef Barton Seaver from Blue Ridge, Chef Robert Wiedmaier from Marcel's and Brasserie Beck, and  Chef David Deshaies from Michel Richard Citronelle.  Other Top Chef alum, Chef Richard Blais, also cooked up a storm at the Bloom stage.  Knowing that I only had a few hours to spare from work, we structured our visit to the Show around Chef Bryan's feature.

I can't help it, I just love him.  Every Wednesday (or perhaps Thursday or Friday... whenever I get to the DVR'ed show) I cheer him on -- not just because he's my home state favorite (being from Maryland and all), but because I think he is simply a fantastic chef.

We hurried over to the Bloom stage at the tail end of Chef Wiedmaier's presentation to grab seats for Chef Bryan's show.  And a good thing we did!  The seating area quickly filled up and then soon it was standing room only (so smart people brought in chairs from other places around the convention center).  A few minutes before the show began, Chef Bryan came out and you could see everyone testing their cameras, taking test shots, to use flashes or not (I wonder what he thought of all this hubbub)...

For the next 45 minutes, we enjoyed learning all about making desserts - in particular his flexible chocolate ganache that he had made during Top Chef.  He made it look so simple, giving us little hints along the way.  He also made milk chocolate ice cream using liquid nitrogen -- which he kindly warned us not to try at home and to be very careful with -- and a KitchenAid mixer (see first pic).  And then these caramel tuilles (which he times with his phone with the dog bark alarm).  And yum.  We snagged a sample of the dessert - chocolatey deliciousness (check out the recipes below!)

Along the way, we learned a few things about him (very few questions were asked til the very end...): (1) He has his own tattoos (! on his arms), (2) He got into cooking when he was a teenager because (a) he thought it would be a good way to meet girls and (b) he had been a busboy at the restaurant he worked at and had thought that cooking seemed like more fun, (3) He moved back to Frederick to open Volt just as his family was all moving away, but his wife's family still lives there, and (4) He couldn't say which of the DC restaurants were his faves because too many of his friends were chefs in DC.

We snuck out before the crowd got too rowdy so missed the final questions, but it was fun to see him in his element and cooking up a storm.  Volt is high on our list of places to try now (perhaps as a birthday celebration?) so hopefully will be reporting on that soon as well.

Chef Voltaggio's Recipes: White Chocolate Ganache, Chocolate Tuile, Milk Chocolate Ice Cream, Chocolate Powder

To assemble:
1) Cut the ganache into a long rectangular portion 6” X 1”
2) Plate with the ganache shaped like an “S” on the plate.
3) Place chocolate powder on one end of the ganache falling off the ganache
4) Place cocoa nibs chopped rough on each portion
5) Place shards of the chocolate tuile into the ganache
6) Quenelle the ice cream on top of the chocolate powder

White Chocolate Ganache (he cooked up a dark chocolate ganache for us)

Ingredients:
450 Gr. White Chocolate
1 ¼ Gelatin Sheet, Bloomed
50 Gr. Water
100 Gr. Sorbitol
3 Gr. Agar
50 Gr. Glucose
300 Gr. Cream
2 Gr. Salt

Directions:
Combine the water, sorbitol, agar in a medium size pot then bring to boil.

In a separate pot combine the glucose, cream, salt and bring to a simmer. Remove from heat then add gelatin.

Add then 2 hot mixtures over the chocolate stir until dissolved. Do not whisk. You don’t want air bubbles.

Strain over sheet tray lined with pan spray and lay a sheet of acetate, allow to cool. Once set cut and store in cooler.

Chocolate Tuile

Ingredients:
1500 Gr. Sugar
25 Gr. Pectin
500 Gr. Butter
400 Gr. Glucose
800 Gr. Water
500 Gr. Cocoa Paste
100 Gr. Cocoa Powder

Directions:

Bring sugar, pectin, butter, glucose, and water to boil.

Stir in cocoa paste and powder. Continue cooking and string until thick.

Cool and spread onto silpat, bake at 300° F until crisp.

Store in cool dry place.

Cocoa Syrup

Ingredients:
100 Gr. Water
20 Gr. Cream
60 Gr. Sugar
30 Gr. Cocoa powder
* For chocolate powder combine with Tapicoa maltodextrin

Directions:

Combine the water, cream, sugar, and cocoa powder.

Bring to a simmer. Steep for 20 minutes.

Strain through a coffee filter

Cool and add to the maltodextrin for chocolate powder

Milk Chocolate Ice Cream

Ingredients:
3000 Gr. Milk
350 Gr. Sugar
950 Gr. Cream
200 Gr. Milk chocolate
900 Gr. Egg yolk
5 Gr. Cream stabilizer

Directions:

Combine the milk, cream, and sugar bring to a boil

Pour the cream mixture over the chocolate, add the stabilizer.

Temper the egg yolks into the cream and then cook until the ice cream base thickens and coats the back of a spoon.

Strain and cool immediately. Process in a ice cream machine. Store frozen until ready to plate.

Dish in the District: Fabulous Foodie Events and Openings

Last Year's Metropolitan Cooking and Entertaining Show
Every so often, I like to immerse myself in finding out about the newest restaurant openings (because let's be honest, restaurants are constantly opening in DC!).  This week's Dish in the District brings us some restaurant openings and coming soons... PLUS some fantastic foodie events taking place in the next week!  I'm really sad that I won't be able to make any of these events this year due to work, but please go go and tell me all about it!

FOODIE EVENTS

Metropolitan Cooking and Entertaining Show: November 7-8, 2009 at the Convention Center -- I went last year to this delicious food show -- see your favorite Food Network chefs (Giada!  Paula!  Tyler!) and also DC / Maryland Top Chef darlings Bryan Voltaggio of Volt and Mike Isabella of Zaytinya.  We went with the general admission, which buys you into a convention hall full of foodie exhibitors that will make your mouth water.  Last year, we went to go see Giada's cooking demo too.  Def check it out!

Capital Food Fight: November 11, 2009 - When our friends James and Shannon told us about this event, I wanted to sign up immediately.  Unfortunately, it is right in the middle of one of my busiest weeks of work.  60 restaurants, 5 battling chefs... More of DC's favorites will be battling each other -- Barton Seaver, Michael Mina, Bryan Voltaggio, Mike Isabella, and Tracy O'Grady ... 52 of DC's best restaurants serving food... chairman and host, the wonderfully inventive Jose Andres (Jaleo, Zaytinya, Cafe Atlantico, Oyamel) with co-host Anthony Bourdain and co-chair Ted Leonis.  Talk about my dream line-up here!  Judging the competition?  Ted Allen, Eric Ripert, and Carla Hall.  And all going to support DC Central Kitchen.  I'm utterly depressed that I can't go, but if you go, please fill me in!

RESTAURANT OPENINGS
(Descriptions courtesy of The List Are You On It - check it out, a fabulous site!)

Birch & Barley/ChurchKey:   The beer-centric destinations, both located in the former Dakota Cowgirl space at Logan Circle mark the first foray into the District for NRG, which operates Buzz, EatBar, Evening Star Café, Planet Wine, Rustico, Star Catering, Tallula and Vermilion, all in Northern Virginia. On the ground floor is Birch & Barley, a beer-forward and wine-friendly restaurant. The husband-and-wife team of Kyle Bailey and Tiffany MacIsaac will run the kitchen. Kyle is the executive chef and MacIsaac is the pastry chef. Both were previously at Allen & Delancey in NYC. Upstairs, a new kind of beer haven awaits at the 3,200 square-foot ChurchKey. Governed by Beer Director Greg Engert, who serves in the same position at Rustico, the bar will serves 555 different beers, including 500 bottles representing 100 styles and 30 countries. Fifty drafts are available and five authentic hand pumped cask-conditioned ales representing rare English and other international styles are here, too. You'll also find domestic beers that are often not seen in DC. (1337 14th Street; 202.518.7549)

J. Chocolatier - In the the Georgetown rowhouse that formerly housed Chez Mama-San, Maitre chocolatier Jane Morris recently opened her first J. Chocolatier retail store, after doing wholesale in the DC area for almost three years. Morris founded J. Chocolatier with the belief that affordable indulgences are what make life the sweetest. After studying with acclaimed chocolatier Fritz Knipschildt, Maitre Chocolatier Morris has returned to Washington, DC to create her own line of chocolates, focusing on elegant flavors with classic hand-crafted techniques and timeless quality. (1039 33rd Street, NW)

Masa 14- In a partnership between Kaz Okochi of KAZ Sushi Bistro, Richard Sandoval of Modern Mexican Group and SULA, LLC, Masa 14 has opened it's doors. With a capacity for 240 guests, Masa 14 features a spacious 100-seat restaurant, plus a private dining room which can accommodate parties of 18, and a handsome 74-seat bar/lounge featuring ample selections of tequila, sake, beer, wine and cocktails. Antonio Burrell is Chef de Cuisine. Prior to joining Masa 14, Burrell served as the chef de cuisine of CommonWealth in Columbia Heights. Burrell's career also includes working for six years in two of Washington's most elite kitchens: Vidalia and Bistro Bis under Chef/Owner Jeffrey Buben. The all-small plates menu will incorporate Asian and Latin flavors, and is priced from $6 to $14. Guests dining at Masa 14 can view the open kitchen complete with a wood-fired brick oven which will be an important centerpiece to Masa 14's menu. (1825 14th Street, NW; 202.328.1414)

The Reserve - Owner Mo Hamdan has opened The Reserve, a modern fusion tapas restaurant located in the former Olly's Trolley space on L Street. Executive chef Frederik De Pue has created an international tapas menu that will change seasonally.  Look for offerings such as beef tartar, crusted black sesame tuna, and guinea hen jalousie. On the wine list, there are 100 wines from all regions of the world, handpicked by The Reserve's in-house sommelier, Olivier Ledoux. Finished brick walls, santos mahogany hardwood floors, marble table tops, brushed spiral metal staircases and custom oak wood finish envelope two floors of rustic, modern, contemporary furnishings.  The Reserve has seating for 140, with both private & semi-private dining space available. (1426 L Street, NW; 202.628.8900)

COMING SOON
(Descriptions courtesy of The List Are You On It - check it out, a fabulous site!)


We,The Pizza - Celebrity chef and former Top Chef contestant Spike Mendelsohn is preparing to open another Capitol Hill restaurant – this time a pizza joint. Located right next door to Good Stuff Eatery, We, The Pizza should open in December or January serving NY-style thin crust pizzas both by the pie and the slice. We, The Pizza will also offer homemade gelato and "old school" sodas.  (Check out my review of Good Stuff here!)

DC's Food Show -- The Metropolitan Cooking and Entertaining Show Part I

Months ago, I first heard about the Metropolitan Cooking & Entertaining Show being held at the DC Convention Center... I admittedly have an addiction to food festivals and food shows... particularly those that feature chefs that I adore. Word was out that Paula Deen, Bobby Flay, and (my fave) Giada de Laurentiis would be guest starring at the show, but tickets were not yet on sale.

Fast forward about three months to last Friday. I had completely forgotten about the food show (how work gets in the way...!) until a friend mentioned that she was going to go see Bobby Flay's presentation and asked if I was going to go. I nearly leaped out my seat! Sure enough, tickets were still available (according to the founder of the DC food show, 16,000 tickets were sold to the two day show!) and I bought two tickets. Our tickets bought us entry into Giada's hour long cooking demonstration (YES!) and general admission to the show.

I had no idea what to expect! I have been to the South Beach Food and Wine Festival (let's see... chef demonstrations? Wine tastings? Book signings? on the beach? fabulous...) but not to too many other food shows. When we arrived though, I was amazed by the massive number of booths set up (more than 200! see above).

There was everything from horseradish cheese (yum)
to fudge, embroidered glassware to healthy food cooking demos, a booth dedicated just to Paula Deen and her products (I didn't even know she had all those products!),

beautiful and unique cakes from The Sweet Life (co-owned by Norman Davis (a Food Network competitor!) and Zane Beg),

mustards a plenty,

and the list goes on and on. We spent about an hour (and could have spent many more) wandering and sampling from the local purveyors of delights.

A laundry list of some of DC's best and favorite chefs presented at the show as well: Cathal Armstrong (Restaurant Eve, Eamonn's), RJ Cooper (Vidalia), Roberto Donna (Bebo Trattoria, previously Galileo), Jacques Haeringer (L'Auberge Chez Francois), Jamie Leeds (Hank's Oyster Bar), and so on...

We didn't get a chance to see the "Nation's Capital Chef's Association 3rd Annual Culinary Salon," a competition judged by a group of Certified Master Chefs. Honestly, I'm a bit fascinated by the Certified Master Chefs after reading Michael Ruhlman's "Soul of a Chef" -- but that's a discussion for another day.

In addition to Food Network competitor Norman Davis above, Food Network competitor fruit and veggie carver James Parker (Veggy Art) had a booth:

After a morning (and early afternoon) of samples, we concluded that some of our favorites include... (perhaps coming to a holiday gift near you!)

• Confection Diva (Toffee, Caramels)


• Japonica Tafe (Tea)


• Trader Joe's (Samples: Chicken Teriyaki)


• River City Bean Co. (Coffee, but loved their "Cafe Crunch" mmm)


• Yancey's Fancy (Horseradish Cheese, Buffalo Wing Cheese)

More in the next post about Giada's cooking presentation!